Though, in my previous visits to Tripura, I had been to places like Chhabimura, Matabari Temple and Dumboor lake, each of which was a very rewarding experience, my visit to Tripura would have been incomplete without visiting the archaeological site at Unakoti in Kailashahar in North Tripura district and Jampui hills on the Mizoram border. It was a weekend plan stretching over two financial years. The earlier evening had been a bit stormy and when we started in the morning at about 8:15 AM from the State Guest House in Agartala, light drizzle set the perfect mood for an adventurous day.
We had the option of taking a shorter route with not so good road but we chose a slightly longer route via Ambassa and Kumarghat. The road condition allowed our vehicle to travel at a reasonably good speed. It was about 5 hours drive with two breaks in between. We reached Unakoti at about 1:00 PM.
 |
| Unakoti Archaeological site |
Unakoti actually means one less than a Crore. There are many myths attached with the place, the prominent one being that Lord Shiva, while going to Kasi, rested for the night and told his fellow gods to wake up and resume the journey before sunrise next morning. But none could rise except Shiva himself and he cursed them to turn to stones. And that is how the stone carvings here came into existence. There are beautiful carvings of various Gods on the rocks in a bas-relief style and these are said to be one of the biggest in India. The rock carvings are about 1000 years old and probably date back to 9th and 10th century AD. There are images of Lord Shiva, Parvati, Ganga, Ganesha and many associated revered animals.
 |
| The signature rock carving in the background |
 |
| Typical tribal features are prominent in the carvings |
 |
| This is probably Nandi, vehicle of Lord Shiva |
There is a stream in the middle of the hillock and and image of Lord Ganesha has been carved just below it that seems as if Ganesha is taking a bath in the stream. It was a marvellous sight to watch. Not only the rocky faces of the hillock but even the loose rocks have been carved into various figures. Some of the loose carvings have been kept in a protected state in a constructed shed up the hill. I was told that there was also a small temple at the top of the hill but too much up and down left me gasping for my breath and my legs threatened to revolt. Only next morning I was to realise that they had really overworked the earlier day. Nevertheless, all this sight left me wondering about the times that these sculptures must have been carved. I was greatly fascinated by the carvings and the myths associated with them. What must have triggered the idea and who were those people? How the myths around them were created? The carvings had typical tribal features like their headgear had series of triangles on a ribbon, elongated faces with round chins and likewise. Whatever it is, the area must have been bustling with activity thousand years back. It was a wonderful peek into the medieval times.
We were back to Circuit House in Kailashahar in the afternoon. Having recuperated ourselves with a short nap after lunch, we visited one of the biggest Tea Estates in Tripura, Manu Valley Tea Estate. It was interesting to see the whole process of tea making right from the green leaves to the round brown granules. The Estate manager was kind enough to explain how the processing affects the aroma and flavour of tea and how different flavours are blended with tea. Offering us different tea flavours to taste, his effort was laudable in trying to make a connoisseur of tea out of us.
The night stay at Circuit House was rejuvenating and prepared us for a tougher next day as it would involve long journeys in the lap of the hills and the mountains. We started at about 8:00 AM in the morning and headed for Damcherra that is the border town of Tripura. It was about an hour drive from Kailashahar. The drive was an absolute delight with lush green tracts of land and hills on both sides of the road. Long straight areca nut trees made it so picturesque and it was a sight to behold.
Reaching Damcherra at about 9:30 AM, I was a bit surprised by the presence of police personnel on the border. An old bridge connects Damcherra to Kanhmun that is a village on the Mizoram side. Crossing the bridge gave me a feeling as if I was entering a different land. Mizoram is so different than the mainland India and then one starts appreciating the diversity of India as a nation.
 |
| Bridge connecting Tripura and Mizoram near Damcherra |
Just after crossing the small bridge which is built over Sunai river, we were in the midst of the village Kanhmun on Mizoram side. It was an extraordinary feeling. At 10:00 AM in the morning when one would expect the daily hustle-bustle of life at its peak, it presented a diametrically opposite picture. So serene and calm with a few Mizo people moving at a leisurely pace.
I was told it was their Church day being a Sunday. Mizos are tribal people who had followed animism just like ancient people elsewhere. It was only in the early twentieth century that Christian missionaries reached Mizoram to spread Christianity and Mizos predominantly started following this religion. Almost hundred percent of the population now follows Christianity. They are of mongoloids racial stock, different than Aryans and Dravidians found in the mainland India and have close proximity to Myanmar in terms of looks, culture, beliefs and traditions. The state is one of the most literates of India with literacy rate going above ninety percent, thanks to the missionaries who opened schools to educate the local people.
After relaxing for some time in the nearby Tribal Guest House, We started our journey to Jampui Hills. As we progressed, the road became more serpentine and the view mountainous. I was told that orange farming was one of the main agricultural activity there. I spotted some patches of barren land on the hills among the green beautiful forests. "Jhum or Shifting cultivation is still practiced here", my accompanying officer told me. Later on, while returning, we also saw some patches of forest put on fire to prepare the land for cultivation.
 |
| Mr Lianmawia's family extended hospitality |
On our way to highest peak in Jampui hill, Betlingshiv, we passed through Vanghmun village in North Tripura. Just hearing this name and having knowledge of earlier village Kahnmun, it occured to me that "mun" must be a suffix in Mizo to denote a habitation just like "pur", "abad", "dih", "ganj" or "mau" elsewhere in India, This village is inhabited by about 1000 Mizo households. Here, while moving around in the village, I had the privilege of being hosted by a Mizo family who took me to their house and offered fresh bananas and papayas from their own farm. Mizos might be skeptic of mainland Indians but Mr C Lianmawia and his wife were wonderful hosts. English is well understood by most Mizo People. Chit-chatting with the family gave an insight into the life of Mizos. Their son was a great fan of Manchester United. When I asked him where he plays football in this hilly village, he told there was one ground that is used for all kind of plays including football. Football and guitar seem to be the passion of North-East people.
Further one hour away from the village was the highest peak of Jampui Hills, Betlingshiv. I had a great difficulty in getting the name but I am sure it must be having some meaning in the local language. There was a watch tower and the view of the hills from this was exhilarating. Nature has been so generous and equally bountiful to all parts of earth without discrimination. Journey from Kailashahar to this place had been very rewarding in itself with lots of experiential learning. It proved to be worth a visit.
We started back at about 3:00 PM to Kanchanpur where we had our delayed lunch. Kanchanpur to Agartala was about 5 hours drive and provided a good time to reflect upon the experience of the day. We were back to Agartala State Guest House by 9:00 PM.
